Culture of Murree hills
The people of Murree are strong, brave and hospitable. These mountaneous people are now mostly engaged in business in Murree city and governoment jobs in Rawalpindi and Islamabad. The following is an historic description, of the inhabitants, items of clothing mentioned here like the pagri (a kind of Turban) are no longer worn.
The spectre of hunger and starvation pushed many towards the plains or into the army, police and other services. Farming and cattle breeding, the two main occupations of the hill people have not undergone any change for the better. Farming is the main occupation of the hill people in spite of low returns. Farmers in the hilly tracts have no idea of double cropping, as the climatic and irrigation water conditions do not permit high returns. The seriousness of this restriction imposed by nature itself is further compounded by the fact that a hill farmer is the owner of an average holding of four or five acres. In view of such small land holdings he had to struggle and toil to earn a living for himself and his family. By adopting thrifty measures he managed to survive by the skin of his teeth.
The second occupation cattle breeding was not done for profit. Cows were kept for supplying milk for the daily use of the household. Bullocks were used to work the plough. Hill cows are hardy but small. An indigenous breed would give up to a maximum of one seer of milk. When the Murree Sanatorium developed, a great demand for milk was created. It stipulated the local zamindar to import milch-kine from other districts. Buffaloes could give from sold at the fixed price of one anna per seer. But these windfall profits lasted only till the end of the season. As for large flocks of sheep and goats, they were valued more for providing manure than for milk, meat or skin. In those days it was a common custom to get the Gujjar herdsmen to collect their flock on the unsown fields at night. In return the farmers provided food to the herdsmen. The droppings of sheep and goats fertilised their fields with the best manure that could be made available in the hills. Coming back to the profitability of the two main occupations of the hillmen, it would suffice to say they were adequate only if the zamindar had some additional source of income, but that was not the case with the majority of people. In the absence of an industrial base, local potential was neither exploited nor gainfully employed.
The British Raj quickened the pulse of the district a little when it took control of the Murree Hills, but the quiet routine of the ordinary hillman was never seriously interrupted or changed. During the Raj, the hills and valleys of Murree had more dense forests than today. It is difficult to say when, where and how the first human dwelling started on Murree hills. From the layman’s point of view, it happened roughly a thousand years back. This assumption is based upon their study of old graves and centuries old plants found growing in their vicinity. The construction and style of graves, the direction in which they are made also help in determining their age.
The forefather of the Dhoond Abbasi tribes, namely Shah Wali alias Dhoond Khan came to Murree in the middle of the 12th century. Calculating from then onwards it comes to about nine hundred years. The rural population of Murree lived in far- flung, small hamlets called dhoks. Each dhok consisted of one to 50 houses at the most. A hamlet comprised fewer than a dozen houses. Each family had its own mud house and cattle sheds constructed in the middle of its own fields. This isolation was self-desired and voluntary. The need for mutual protection often force the rural population of the countryside to congregate and live in large villages. The hill people felt no such compulsion. They were in perfect harmony with their environment. Their priorities lay in two entirely different directions.
The quality of soil in the hills is not the same at every place. The zamindars do not get the best land in one village. It may be in patches that are scattered at great distances from each other. Hence the difference between manured and unmanured soil determined their choice of residence. They distributed their dwellings with the view of readily obtaining manure for land that appeared potentially fertile. Actually the soil of Murree and Patriata spurs was considered best in the tehsil. It was deep and earthy and of a dark brown colour. High return crops could be grown in it with the help of ample rainfall and a lot of hill manure. When compared with the rich soil of the Punjab plains it is not that good, but from hill standards this was the best. It is for this reason alone that the Murree and Patriata spurs are densely populated as compared to the other spurs.
The happy mixture of the Hindu, Sikh and Muslim population in the Murree hills some fifty years back was also a significant feature. The great bulk of population in the rural areas was of Sunni Muslims. In a rural population of say ten thousand people, there were nine thousand Muslims, more than five hundred Hindus and nearly four hundred and fifty Sikhs. When both the urban and rural population is taken together, out of a total of every ten thousand people, there were a little more than one thousand Hindus, nearly five hundred Sikhs and approximately eight thousand and five hundred Muslims. In spite of their predominance, the Muslims were not an overbearing presence. They were tolerant of other’s religion and lived with them in great harmony. If they felt some animosity it was only towards the Sikhs. Under the rule of the Sikhs, the Muslims suffered a lot due to inaccurate assessment of land revenue.
The painful memories of those bad times had dimmed but they could not be totally erased from memory. Yet the atmosphere was of mutual tolerance between the three groups. In those days the Hindu population was more concentrated in Potah Kotli Sattian, Phapprial, Angoori and Deval. This lastly mentioned village had derived its name from the fact that it had a small temple. In the Hindi language “deval” means the abode of gods or a temple. Other Hindu sites were concentrated in Murree Station. At the far end of Lower Bazar, the Hindus had their own locality called Mohallah Shiwala. It comprised of a big temple, a holy water spring of fresh water, cremating grounds located in a ravine and tastefully constructed residential buildings with their characteristic Hindu arches, courtyards, motifs and woodwork. This place resounded with the jingle of temple bells, singing of bhajans, supplications of jogis and cries of pilgrims who dipped in the cold and clear streams of the holy springs behind large boulders. The ashman was a symbolic act of purification of the body and soul from worldly sins. It was a concerted world, self- created at a distance from the untouchables by the financially strong Hindu population of Murree
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